West Norwood might as well be on the moon when it comes to good pubs. Formerly intimidatingly old-school (the Union Jacks outside told their own story), the revamped Park could use its leafy location to attract families. However, there are no high chairs, and its rather austere makeover ends at the gents.

The short menu is separated into Bits, Pieces, Pizzas and After Thoughts (an unfortunate description of three desserts). Many of the bits and pieces ('artisanal' bread, chilli-flecked olives, houmous and a big bowl of feta) were collated in an agreeable vegetarian meze. Though it was perfect for soaking up hand-pulled London Pride and Greene King IPA beers, locals might baulk at the price (£8.95).

In contrast, the pizzas are a reasonable £7.50. The bases are hand made, topped simply with quality produce. A combination of salty pancetta and robust gorgonzola was heavy going but knobbly chunks of chorizo on one pizza, and torn slices of smoked chicken on another were a world away from your Friday-night 'Meat Feast'. As for those afterthoughts, a chocolate brownie was too dry but the winter fruit crumble fed five (the extra spoons, like the olives left on our table from the meze, were a thoughtful touch).

Though there is a pile of board games, on our Sunday lunchtime visit, there were scarcely enough patrons for a meaningful game of Kerplunk. But, with a new terrace under construction and plans for upstairs, The Park's owners seem confident that if they build it, customers will come. While this refurbishment is really only enough to bring it up to noughties London pub standards, that's still one giant step for West Norwood.
Martin Horsfield

Time Out London issue 1952: January 16-22 2008